The season turns, migratory waterfowl alight upon the banks of a lake. As the sun dips lower into the horizon, herds of swamp deer canter over grasslands, retreating for the night. A solitary jeep rolls over the forest track, the crunch of the tire on dry leaves distinct in the quiet wilderness. Between the foliage, glimpses emerge, of a tiger on the prowl for prey. A while away, sculptures from mythology age gracefully in an amber hued town.

This journey touches upon the major wildlife sanctuaries and national parks in north and central India, providing a wide variety of experiences for those enamoured by wildlife. Beginning in Bharatpur, a well-populated bird sanctuary in Rajasthan, the journey moves into the arid forests of Ranthambore. From there, it stops at Kanha, known for its tropical forests and indigenous species of animals. Follow the trail to Panna National Park, witness nurture that has renewed the tiger and gharial populations. On a short excursion to Pench, behold a wide variety of indigenous species, then come to a rest at the famed tiger reserve of Bandhavgarh. Before drawing the journey to a close, unearth ancient Hindu and Jain temples of incomparable architecture in nearby Khajuraho.

Adjacent to the city of Bharatpur is the Keoladeo National Park, a bird sanctuary home to more than 300 species of birds. A man-made wetland developed over the years, the sanctuary plays host to several migratory birds, being on the Central Asian migratory flyway. Within its marshes and grasslands is found rich biodiversity, resounding with the call of a variety of bird and animal life.

From this wetland, drive down to the dry expanses of Ranthambore, where a majestic old fort has been taken over by the wild. Like most other national parks in this region, Ranthambore was initially the hunting ground for the royal families of its neighbouring kingdoms. Now ruled by the king of the jungle, Ranthambore is widely visited for its growing population of Royal Bengal tigers.

After a short flight, alight in Jabalpur, the access point to more than three national parks of Central India. In the meadows of Kanha National Park are found the rare barasingha, or hard-ground swamp deer, unlike other species of swamp deer, which are suited to living on marshy lands. Located in a tropical area, the park is naturally well populated with forests and over a thousand species of plant life, much of which is important for the conservation of indigenous species like the gaur.

North of Jabalpur lies Panna National Park, a vast deciduous forest spread across the Vindhyas. With cascading waterfalls and meandering rivers, Panna is one of the tiger reserves of India where the tiger population has been brought back to life painstakingly. In close proximity sits the Ken Gharial Wildlife Sanctuary, established to renew the fast-declining population of the indigenous species of crocodile.

Drive down to the southernmost edge of the state to discover Pench National Park, believed to have been the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling’s famous The Jungle Book. Established in 1965, it has a handsome population of tigers, jackals, wild dogs, sloth bears, spotted deer, and Indian gazelle. Its climate allows for dense forest cover, and a large number of trees like teak, salai, amaltas, even bamboo are found in abundance.

In lush Bandhavgarh, the most well-known national park for tigers, explore a changing terrain of steep ridges, forests, and meadows. Containing more than 30 species of mammals, 250 species of birds, and 80 species of butterflies, the jungles of Bandhavgarh are greatly sought after for their diversity in both flora and fauna. Currently housing the largest population of the Royal Bengal tiger in the world, it is also well-populated by endangered species like that of the gaur and the Indian wolf.

In the ancient town of Khajuraho, experience the harmonious coexistence of temples belonging to two schools of belief, Hinduism and Jainism. Built in the 10^th century by the Chandela dynasty of the Bundelkhand region, the Khajuraho Group of Monuments are a masterpiece of architecture and sculpture. More than 80 such intricate temples existed initially, around twenty of which survive till date.

A stream of crowd separates at the helm to reveal the image of a proud, triumphal arch. A cool breeze filters across the lake and into the eye of a cave, softening an ancient dance of sculpted figures. Amidst sounds of a hawker's call to wares, the aroma of a simmering biryani sifts through. Illuminated by the first light of the day, a crumbling ruin narrates stories of its wager with time.

In this journey through some of the historical cities of South India, trace the legacy of empires from the classical and medieval period. Begin in Hyderabad, whose cyberspace frontiers draw back to a history of competing sultanates. Passing former Islamic strongholds in north Karnataka, travel to the once-flourishing capitals of Hindu empires in Badami and Hampi. Towards the end, traverse the quiet settlements surrounding Halebidu, a former seat of power of the Hoysala empire.

Arrive in Hyderabad, whose streets were laid out around the waters of river Musi by a 16th-century Qutb Shahi emperor. Now a bustling metropolis, the city still exudes an old-world charm in its imposing mosques and mausoleums. The 16th-century fortress of Golconda resounds with stories of an old, diamond vault, while the extensive Salar Jung museum displays a wealth of artefacts from around the world.

Travelling westwards, glimpse at the architectural heritage preserved in the countryside of Bidar, Gulbarga and Vijayapura. The soaring minaret of a madrasa in Bidar, delicate Persian art adorning the tombs of Gulbarga, and the magnificent, domed mausoleum of Vijayapura, depict the artisanship of the Bahmani Sultanate that ruled the land from the 14th to 17th centuries.

Moving deeper into the Deccan, alight at the quiet village of Badami settled along the banks of an ancient lake. Badami, as the capital of the Chalukya empire from the 6th to 8th centuries, preserves a singular craftsmanship in the exquisite friezes and rock-cut temples that adorn its sculpted, red sandstone hills. Nearby, the villages of Aihole and Pattadakal further a display of immaculate rock-cut shrines from the classical period.

After a short drive, arrive at Hampi, capital of the Vijayanagara empire in the 14th century. Surrounded by leafy palms and rocky boulder hills, the ruins of Hampi whisper stories of elaborate temple rituals, city planning and an eventual decline at the hands of battle.

Further south, meander in the quiet settlements surrounding Halebidu and Belur. Seat of the powerful Hoysala empire in the 11th century, its distinctive temples exemplify the dance of art in stone, profused with details of the lifestyle, traditions and religious beliefs of the people.

Towards the end, arrive at Shravanabelagola, where the monolith of a revered Jain figure looks on meditatively over an expanse of temples and matted hills. Dating back to the 10th century, the town links its origins to the asceticism of a Mauryan emperor, becoming an important pilgrimage centre for Jainism.

An emperor’s embellished silk robe grazes the ground as he glides in view of his awaiting subjects. A coterie of housewives from the farming community work away on a heavily embroidered cotton veil for the bride-to-be. In the zenana, the women of a royal family await the news of the day, cooling themselves with a fan of stitched fabric tied to a sculpted wooden handle.

The sheer diversity in the tradition of handicrafts in India make it nearly impossible to document every style of handicraft that exists. Passed down over generations, each craft preserves a set of customs and rituals in its nurturing. Embark on this grand journey of the North to witness artisanry that has evolved with care and toil. Travel from the Sikh city of Amritsar to the ancient spiritual centre of Varanasi and explore the arts of the plains in Lucknow and Agra. Towards the end, arrive in Jaipur to interact with communities fostering centuries-old traditions.

Starting from Delhi, travel to the northern fields of Amritsar, a city named after the sacred waters of the iconic Golden Temple. Lying on the erstwhile Silk Route, Amritsar possesses a rich history in the trade of handcrafted products. Its vibrant markets still flourish through the presence of local artisans, weavers from Kashmir and ironsmiths from neighbouring Pakistan, producing textiles that feature delicate flower motifs known as phulkari, iron-tipped bamboo staves called khunda and woollen carpets interlaced with cotton, known as galeecha.

Moving deeper into the Gangetic plains, explore the markets that inhabit the shadowed, winding lanes of Varanasi. Wooden toys, lac-coated in bright colours, metal items embossed with intricate designs and hand-knotted carpets lie arranged in a baffling, colourful array. In the homes, hidden behind its towering mosques and temples, weavers of the Ansari community work to the rhythm of a foot handloom to create intricately designed silk textiles.

Travelling westwards, arrive at Lucknow, the former capital of the empire of the Nawabs. The rulers promoted the use of delicately embroidered muslin garments, founding a longstanding tradition of chikankari textiles that survives to this day. In the old city market, the echoes of iron hitting leather resound in small workshops, producing thin, edible foils of silver known as varaq. Silver and gold embroidery, carved animal-bone items, and terracotta pottery continue to breathe life into the market’s crumbling interiors.

Further ahead, the city of Agra brims with handicrafts influenced by the Mughals, as well as the devotional worship of Krishna, the popular Hindu god. Pacchikari or pietra dura, an exquisite craft in semi-precious stones, is inspired from the work done at the Taj Mahal. Agra is home to traditional craftsmen, who have mastered this art of laying slivers of coloured stones against black and white marble, to produce fine floral motifs. A walk in its lanes also unveils the artisans skilled at marble carving, glasswork and a traditional art of depicting Krishna’s life through finely cut paper stencils.

In the end, travel to the lively city of Jaipur, whose markets and villages nearby reveal a world of traditional art and handicraft techniques. While the exquisite blue pottery, gemstone jewellery and the textile tradition of tie-resist dyeing stand out in the city, the town of Bagru is known for its block printing technique, where motifs traditionally inspired by flora and fauna, are used in making textiles for various purposes.

The azaan reverberates over the mild traffic din; pigeons cause ripples in the quietude of a tomb. Elsewhere, brightly coloured prayer flags flutter in the mountain winds; an old monk blows gently into the hot soup. A tiny aarti illuminates the dim evening sky; a river drowns in human chatter. Miles away, a golden structure shines brightly before losing its lustre to the night; the aroma of butter fills the air. Silent murmurs, closed eyes, hands folded in devotion across the expanse - all come together, engulfed in the endless stream of humanity.

India, in the ebbs and flows of its history, has seen the birth and evolution of many new faiths. This initiation journey unwinds through the major centres of different faiths in North India. The trail originates in the ancient town of Varanasi - a name that embodies the indefinable faith of Hinduism. The path then leads to Delhi, the city from where Islam flourished and evolved under the eventful rule of the Mughals. It then heads to Amritsar, the birthplace and embodiment of Sikhism. The journey ends in the languid hill town of Dharamshala, where Buddhism lingers palpably like the early morning fog.

The smudged reflections of a bright orange flame welcome one to the old city of Varanasi. Walking down the ghats, the many aspects of life - prayers and cusses, work and leisure, peace and chaos, birth and death - all flow together in harmony, their boundaries blurred. Within its thin alleyways reside temples and stones over which one stumbles upon a thousand myths and stories.

The busy streets of Delhi unveil pleasant sediments of Islamic influence at every turn. The old part of the city exudes a feeling - of life long camaraderie with a faith that has added greatly to the city's unique culture. The high rises and growing urbanity hold within them beautiful remnants - tombs, mosques and crafts - evoking a sense of lightness akin to that of an Urdu Ghazal. 

Around the grand yet graceful structure of Harmandir Sahib has grown the city of Amritsar. Every lane of this city - from posters carrying religious symbols to the amiable people and their language - reminds one of the faith that they hold dear. Born out of the influences of two major religions, the religion’s emphasis on spirituality and service is captured best by the community meals served to everyone within the mandir premises.

The cool blue and green landscape of Dharamshala stands in contrast to the crimson Buddhist robes. The business of the streets fades into the meditative hum of the mountains and a faith. In the town’s cobbled streets, cosy cafes and serene monasteries, one finds the influences of Buddhism everywhere, nestled comfortably, having made this place its home since the last century.

The winding roads reveal an expanse of uniform green patches.  A plantation worker stops by the shrine of the Sufi saint who first smuggled coffee beans into India. In a kitchen, decoction drips slowly in a traditional filter. A few newspapers rustle and crease by a roadside coffee stall. Up in the hills, a lone hornbill cuts across the sunlit sky.

This journey follows the exotic aroma of coffee, trailing through the slopes of the undulating Western Ghats where South India’s tryst with coffee began, to the urban centres where coffee drinking has evolved into a culture of its own.  It will begin in the city of Bangalore moving South to the scenic landscapes of Chikmangalur also known as the Coffee House of India. The trail will then lead to the tranquil hill station of Coorg, before descending into the untouched Wayanad forests. The trail will continue into the more urban environment of Mysore, before coming to an end in the streets of Chennai.

The journey begins in the urban centre of Bangalore - a city that has metamorphosed from a sleepy cantonment to a bustling cosmopolitan. With coffee shops around every corner, the city will serve as the perfect introduction to the region’s culture surrounding their favourite beverage.

From the busy streets of Bangalore, move southward towards the lofty landscapes of Chikmagalur, where the first coffee beans were planted in India. With pristine waterfalls, hill temples, and untrodden trekking trails lined with panoramic coffee plantations, Chikmagalur is a haven for those seeking respite from the two-dimensional cities. The fruits vegetables and meat available in the mountain ranges have, over the years, shaped the Malanad cuisine of the region characterised by less usage of oil and a heavy influence of spices.

The aroma then leads you to the picturesque landscapes of Coorg, a serene hill region eluding the grasps of urbanity, nestled within verdant rainforests, and the hill slopes carved into coffee plantations. These rugged hills that were inaccessible bore within them a community known for its unique culture and way of life. Secluded from the rest of the region for most of its history, their Kodavu culinary tradition has been preserved with minimal external influence.  

Inhale the rich aroma of coffee with the occasional winds, while the air of Wayanad is smooth and a raspy confluence of green spices and the mountain soil. A spread of towns, villages and wilderness, the Wayanad region allows one to slow down and revel in its charms. Protected from outside influence by the guardian mountains, this region offers a wide range of dishes that form the cuisine of indigenous tribes.

Travel all the way to the fragrant city of Mysore to share a ‘by two coffee’ with a friend.  The pleasant tree-lined boulevards and well-spaced buildings welcome one to a city with a vibrant culture. Influenced by the Udupi cuisine and the Malanad cuisine, Mysore has carved a place for itself in the famed culinary traditions of India.

Fly down to the city of Chennai, where the early morning streets fill with the robust aroma of the famed ‘filter coffee’ decoction. A city that rose to prominence under the colonial rule, Chennai and it's crowded cacophonous streets offer to the travellers a quick glimpse into the myriad cultures of Tamil Nadu.

The land of five rivers ‘Punjab’ has a turbulent history. Straddling India and neighbouring Pakistan, Punjab had wealth that was blessed with prosperity that is reflected in all aspects of its culture. Songs of harvest, mansions that held entire communities, festivals that involve horse riders and holy swords, tales and folklore that outlived generations to shape popular traditions.

This journey will take you to this hallowed land and into the hearts of people who call it their home. The journey starts at Amritsar, a city that never ceases to amaze the visitor with its resilience. The city takes its name from the tank that surrounds the famed Golden Temple, meaning the ‘pool of the nectar of immortality’. Amritsar holds the distinction of being the spiritual heart of the Sikh faith and millions visit the city each day to get a glimpse of the sanctum at the temple.

In Kapurthala, the erstwhile capital of a princely state, we will visit an opulent palace that was converted into a centre of education. The imposing edifice, faithful to the French Renaissance style of architecture, vies with the nearby mosque that boasts a resemblance to buildings in Marrakesh. The city is sprinkled with gardens and studded with temples and gurudwaras that sing paeans of courage and wisdom of the Sikh Gurus.

'Jalandhar’ or the land that lies between the two life-giving rivers, Satluj and Beas, is one of the most prominent sites of the ancient Indus Valley Civilisation. The excavations have dated Jalandhar as an inhabited city since the dawn of the Harrapan times. The Grand Trunk Road, a 2700-km long highway built by the Mughals, runs through the heart of the city, reiterating Jalandhar’s prominent position on a historical trade route. The city also assumed an important role in the relatively recent history during the freedom struggle, when it became the seat of the Khilafat movement.

Patiala has a fragile blend of tradition and modernity, much like the famous attire, the Patiala salwar-kameez, which the women of the city are often identified by. Established in the middle of the eighteenth century, the city’s culture is replete with Punjabi, Mughal, and Rajput characteristics. A city synonymous with mouth-watering delicacies and pegs of country brew, Patiala celebrates festivals of North India with fervour and ferocity.

A city of conflicting philosophies, Chandigarh is distinctly modern and minimalist. The city was spontaneously created after India gained her independence in 1947 by Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru. A masterpiece of urban design, the city was planned by Swiss-French architect, Le Corbusier and is divided into blocks and sectors, embellished with beautiful gardens, giving it an unparalleled position in the urban architecture of India.

End this journey in the enchanting city of Delhi. A fascinating amalgamation of cultures, Delhi has something for everyone. Visit the magnificent shrine that is the Bangla Saheb Gurudwara built in 1783. This place of solace is flocked by more than a thousand people in one single day. Take a stroll through the sprawling Lodhi Gardens, or indulge in the mouth-watering cuisines that the city has to offer. Delhi is a city rich in history and transformed through modernity.