Shajanram is a frail little person in his late eighties. Yet he moves gracefully, with the agility of a nearby desert antelope. The thick round glasses lying on his aquiline nose magnify the darkness of his black, almond-shaped eyes. The white beard and long moustache match the uniform colour of his shirt, dhoti, and turban. His smile is spontaneous, frequent and highly infectious, as his kindness.
He bows in respect to welcome guests in the home that he shares with his four sons, their wives and a total of twelve healthy and cheerful grandchildren. Shajanram does not speak a word of English. His facial expressions genuinely convey his feelings, passing through no filter, no social barrier. For the rest, a guide translates his sacred speech.
An outsider, overwhelmed by the seemingly chaotic happenings, tends to forget that for the locals it is but a rhythm that they are used to...
An ode to the ittarwallahs of Kannauj, Uttar Pradesh, alchemical men who have mastered the ethereal craft of extracting from mud, the scent of rain...
This journey explores the rich Rajput and Mughal heritage exemplified by the resplendent architecture of North India...
This journey traces the legacies set in stone, of empires that ruled the Deccan across the classical and medieval periods of history...
A luxury boutique hotel perched on the edge of the Aravalli hills that run through the city of lakes...
The first steps into Srinagar comforted this spontaneous feeling, and on the morning of Eid, the city adopted me...